On Travel

Schiphol, Amsterdam's international airport, is a stop on the main north-south route. It takes only about 20 minutes to arrive from the center of Amsterdam, or 30 minutes and €7 from The Hague. The trains run every ten minutes or so and deposit you directly into the terminal. Couldn't be easier. Obviously, since this is the Netherlands, bicycle paths go to the airport as well.

No one actually wears the traditional Dutch wooden clogs anymore, although tourists certainly buy them as souvenirs. At Schiphol, they have a creative new use: bathroom flower planters.

Onto Switzerland.... They have these nifty ticket kiosks, even at the neighborhood bus stop. And most fun, you have to buy a child-priced ticket for your dog!

And for a European statement on travel, I present this photo, taken in Lausanne:

And finally Geneva airport, with prime diplomatic parking:

Morning View

I basically live in a "project" by the central train station, but this being Europe (and specifically, not France), it's reasonably nice. That said, the view from the balcony isn't much to write home about, or blog about, as the kids say these days. But yesterday morning, the sun reflecting off of the clouds rolling in off of the ocean was stunning. (The camera doesn't begin to do it justice.)

More Photos

I went to Amsterdam for a conference on Friday. I was happy to see that I am well represented there:

I met up with my dear friend Katharina for lunch. After the conference, I met up with my good friend Elad, with whom I lived in Israel in 1998-99.




Elad is working (in Israel) for a Swedish company and was on his way to Sweden for business. En route, he spent two days in Amsterdam and then came down to spend two days with me in The Hague. We spent Saturday walking about in The Hague; the weather was beautiful.



This is where the Queen works (she lives in the next town over).




This is the International Court of Justice. Andrew Carnegie gave the money to found the institution, hoping it would ensure world peace and end war permanently. It opened one year before world war one.

Incidentally, I don't work here -- I work at the International Criminal Court, which is housed in the former headquarters of the national phone company. Think big Verizon building -- much less nice.



Finally, this is the sunset over the beach at Scheveningen, the fancy end of town. While the Netherlands was occupied by the Germans during World War II, Germans learned Dutch and attempted to infiltrate the Dutch resistance. As a result, the Dutch started using the word "Scheveningen" as a password, since no matter how good their Dutch, this word was still unpronounceable for the Germans. And everyone else.

two photos

First, Hans and Frans. How could I not take a photo?




Second, yes that's me in a goofy robe. Apparently lawyers in Europe, and at the ICC, wear these robes in court. In Belgian french, they actually call this a "toge" -- a toga! Naturally, within minutes of putting one on, I got sweaty, started sneezing and coughing, and ran out of the courtroom. Thus, I sat there the rest of the time in only a suit and tie. Not a major problem though - seeing as I was in the last row, hiding behind a large computer monitor.

The Enemies of Freedom

The enemies of freedom have followed me to the Netherlands. See attached photo, taken on my floor, posted following a mission in which said enemies dared to throw away my perfectly good leftovers.



But luckily, the United States Congress has already (preëmptively) passed the so-called "Hague Invasion Act." No, seriously: "The President is authorized to use all means necessary and appropriate to bring about the release of any person described in subsection (b) who is being detained or imprisoned by, on behalf of, or at the request of the International Criminal Court." 22 U.S.C. § 7427(a).

I'll have to find a lawyer to determine whether the President is sufficiently authorized to invade for the purposes of the release of my leftovers.

On Language

When I come to a new country, I certainly do my best to learn the language. But the utility of Dutch is pretty non-existent, when you consider that nearly everyone here speaks English and the language is basically spoken nowhere else. Ok, so I'm ignoring Aruba, etc., but the point is, this isn't like learning something with value, like arabic or spanish.

Upon arrival I managed to learn to identify the crucial words posted on apartments all over town, "Te Huur" and "Te Koop" -- for rent and for sale. I dutifully recorded phone numbers and addresses, only to discover that anyway real estate agencies wouldn't deal with my six month stay.

The Dutch also say "sorry," which luckily means, "sorry," so I figured that was a word within my grasp, but despite my best efforts to mimic their accent, they still reply, "No problem at all." I next turned to numbers and the first few numerals came easily, so I looked for the rest in my guidebook (Nagel's Holland Travel Guide (1951)), but it warns, "it is almost impossible for a foreigner to understand figures spoken by the Dutch." So it goes.

And I think I have a sufficiently difficult lingual challenge at the office with the French -- a challenge which I adore -- so I'll probably stick there, for now.




Although I must add that another barrier is the stupid Chipknip (pictured above). The thing is, they give me change in coins everywhere, including 1 and 2 euro coins, the latter being worth almost three bucks. But then when you go to a vending machine, for say, a much too alluring 20 cent cup of instant coffee, you can't buy it, since they only take Chipknip.

"Big" News

I got a cell phone. And a rain suit -- which is perfect for riding to work in the rain, since it seems to do that every single day. And.... an apartment! ! The Rabbi connected me with a very nice guy who has recently taken a job in Amsterdam. He's mostly living there, but coming back on some weekends. He has a very nice two bedroom and I will take up one bedroom. On the plus side, it's right next to the central train station; on the minus side, it's right next to the central train station -- and I mean right next to -- so I hope I can sleep at night. The roommate is an older guy and religious too, so I'm about to have a crash course in keeping a kosher kitchen.


Today there was a hearing. The courtroom is gorgeous and very different. I'll have to recount in due course, but tonight we had a very lovely (and very European) team dinner and now it's a bit late.

In brief, I didn't sit with the defense during the first hour, and I imagine the news photogs took their shots and left, so you probably won't see me. But here's the AP's version of today's events: Prosecutors in Congo warlord trial want witnesses protected from reprisals And from another wire service: Trial date uncertain

The simultaneous translation (through headphones) is pretty sweet. If only I could wear such things at all times....

The Office

A few words about my office:

I'm working for the defense team, which is currently composed of seven people: a woman from France and I are the "stagieres" (interns); there are two "assistants" from Québec; a case manager from Belgium; and finally two "counsels" (lead attorneys) from France. Plus, they may hire one more person from the DRC and of course the client is also from the DRC. Thus, French is spoken in four unique accents; five if you count Paris.

The ICC is located 2km south of the center of The Hague, in an area called Voorburg. It's in a large, retrofitted building that once housed the headquarters of the national phone company. It's nice to be in the ICC's building because I have had the opportunity to meet people -- especially interns -- from all of the different units, such as those working in the Office of the Prosecutor, in judges' chambers, for the registry (a civil law thing - like trial administration), plus those working for the ICC as an institution (HR, IT, facilities, etc.).


There's a lovely cafeteria which is a good place to bump into everybody. The defense team eats together each day. They (we) linger for a while after lunch and then have an espresso. As you know, I'm pretty talkative (an understatement), but the French is all a bit intimidating, so I'm mostly silent. I listen; I people watch.

Prison

Met the client this morning.

The first photo was taken to the side of the prison's main (and very modern) entrance. I'm not sure if it was retained ornamentally or if it is simply a gate to the (very nice) neighborhood abutting the prison.

Links

Man Stuck in Chimney:

http://cosmos.bcst.yahoo.com/ver/242/popup/index.php?cl=4154069


The Brian Lehrer Show: U.N. Roundup
The world's leaders are in New York this week at the United Nations. Blake Hounshell, Web Editor for ForeignPolicy.com, has been blogging on the UN, GA, and the Clinton Global Initiative.
http://www.wnyc.org/shows/bl/episodes/2007/09/26/segments/86147

Apartment Hunt -- In Dutch

I've been searching for an apartment by word of mouth and by using websites. I responded to an notice on a website and received this is response:

Beste Adam,

Beste aankomend kamergenoot,

De kamer is, door de vele aanmeldingen, van kamernet gehaald.
Wij gaan nu een selectie maken van wie we uitnodigen voor de hospiteeravond voor a.s. woensdag 3 oktober! (hou deze datum dus zowiezo vrij een andere datum is niet mogelijk) maar heb wel nog even geduld en je zult een mailtje onvangen over hoe en het bij ons in huis reilt en zeilt en hoe de avond er uit komt te zien.

Als je niet door de selectie bent gekomen wensen wij je veel succes met het zoeken naar een leuke en geschikte kamer voor tijdens de studie of afstuderen.

Met vriendelijke groeten,

Huize Php

And that's fine, because I have Babelfish to "translate" it for me:

Dear Adam, Dear prospective kamergenoot, The chamber has been obtained, by the vele applications, of kamernet. We will make now a selection of which we invite 3 October for the hospiteeravond for next Wednesday! (hou this date therefore zowiezo rather another date not possible) but still have been just as tolerated and you mailtje onvangen concerning how and it sails at us in house reilt and and how the evening comes see there from. If you have not come by the selection wish we you much success with zoeken to leuke and suitable chamber during the study or graduate. With pleasant groeten, Huize Php

Well, now that that's clear, "and it sails at us in house," as they say, we'll just be proceeding along with the apartment search.

status update

Bought a bike. Found a grocery store. Got health insurance. Still need: apartment; mobile phone; Dutch national ID card.

I'm making progress.

NGO cocktail party

After work today, I attended a cocktail party of some NGO that is affiliated with the ICC. I went with three people from work: a Uzbeki guy, a Georgian girl, and an Azerbaijani girl. I enjoyed watching the lingua franca(s) of this trio from the former Soviet republics, which was a bit of Russian mixed into their mostly French conversations.

Upon arrival, I fell into a group of Africans representing various NGOs at a conference that is apparently being held this week at the ICC. Mudather, from Khartoum, Sudan, does work for women in Darfur. Roger, from South Kiva province, Congo (DRC), is doing human rights law there. And there was a guy from Rwanda and another from the Central African Republic. Naturally, we were all scavenging for free drinks and appetizers.

Luckily last night I had read up on the fighting in North Kiva province, so Roger and I had a good discussion. Roger and I also spoke about President Kabila; Roger told me that the east of the DRC supported Kabila during the elections -- he said that his (Roger's) province tallied 98% of their vote for Kabila. The west does not support him, which makes it hard for him to govern in Kinshasa. He said that although Kinshasa, as the capital, attracts people from all over the country, even people from the east who live there do not support Kabila. He said that Kabila's support is waning, which Roger believes is the reason that Kabila has been actively courting Chinese "investment."

Roger also said that he had worked as a lawyer in the case of the murder of the former president, Kabila's father. He didn't say, or wouldn't say, exactly his involvement in the case, but he did seem to believe that Kabila had killed his father in order to assume the presidency.

As a novice anthropologist or geographtician or something, I also asked Roger about comparing Brazzaville to Kinshasa. Roger said that Brazzaville is much more relaxed than Kinshasa and more like the east of the DRC, where he is from, than Kinshasa, which he finds to be stressful and crowded. He said that you cross the river by boat; there is no bridge; and there are lots of complications and bribes to pay in order to cross.

1st day at the ICC

Today was my first day at work. Totally euro. At lunch, the team was talking (in French) about Britney Spears, Bruce Springsteen, the Sopranos, a movie called "Team America," and some Quebecois comedy show. After lunch, we had an espresso from the espresso bar and I felt très Euro.

Amsterdam

On Sunday I took the train up to Amsterdam. The train made a stop in Gouda, which I expected to smell cheesier than it actually did. In fact, they seem to pronounce it ho-da, with that h being guttural and what not. The train also stopped in Breukelen, the eponym of the finest borough, and from which the name was anglicized.

Spent the afternoon with my dear friend Katharina from Vienna, who is doing her doctorate in Amsterdam, and her boyfriend Paul, also from Vienna, who is a professor of finance in The Netherlands. They have a very beautiful apartment and Katharina prepared a terrific couscous dish.

As for The Hague, as a summary, I'd say that it certainly is quaint and what not and I am certainly enjoying the cheap Camembert cheese, yogurt, and other milky products.